EXHIBITS
The Usambara Project: Landscapes of Continuity and Change in the West Usambara Mountains, c. 1910: Gare Monastery, c. 1914 and c. 2016
Gare Monastery, c. 1914
The monastery landscape pictured here makes no accommodation to the surrounding indigenous aesthetic. Almost every plant on the site is exotic to eastern Africa from the coffee plantation over the shoulder of the monk in the foreground to the multitude of exotic trees (Eucalyptus, Grevillea, and many others) lining the roadway to the monastery buildings. As at Kwai (see below), the trees are planted very close together to create a shaded threshold effect for visitors approaching the buildings, themselves expertly constructed from locally made brick and mortar. To the Trappists, their act of landscape creation redeemed the monastery grounds from the isolation, savagery, indolence, and barbarism they believed to surround them.
Of course, the area around Gare was neither isolated nor barbaric. Above the monk’s hat, a blow-up reveals an indigenous landscape covered in lush banana agroforestry gardens anchored by large trees like mshai (Albizia schimperiana) on slopes below the mission boundary and on the hill opposite.This tri-tiered horticultural system incorporated useful trees, vines, nuts, several varieties of bananas, and ground crops (legumes, yams, sweet potatoes, and more) on relatively small, often irrigated, plots. Nor was Gare isolated. The Kaya and valley below made up an important precolonial chieftaincy in constant contact with its peers across the mountains and on to the Indian Ocean coast.
Gare Rosminian Mission, c. 2016
Vegetation now obscures the entirety of what is now called the Gare Mission run by the Irish order of Rosminian Fathers, who replaced the Trappists in the mid-twentieth century. The parish is now substantially smaller; it no longer owns its former forest plot or the section in the immediate foreground. People are building houses and have opened gardens on the former mission grounds. Bananas remain part of the landscape, but not in the quantities seen a century before. A closed canopy forest of exotic trees now covers the open hill behind the parish buildings above what is the mission’s current cemetery. The hilltop forest is now a regular pilgrimage site and surrounds a small chapel.